Reflection on "Appropriate or Appropriation: Native American fashion show"

As consumers, we tend to make our purchase decisions based on little more than what the hottest trend is, failing to see that as a result of this simple mindset, we often wear and display cultural symbols in an inappropriate way. When fashion designers commodify cultural or religious symbols, they cross the fine line between inspiration and cultural appropriation.

It’s everywhere, but it’s nowhere. What Urban Outfitters’ called a “vintage 90s linen dress” turned out to be directly reminiscent of Ethiopian ritual wear. What they launched as its line of “Navajo” items in 2011, including “Navajo” patterns on underwear and socks, turned out to be not Navajo patterns at all. That same year, Lisa Blue’s interpretation of the swimsuit, featuring a print of the Hindu goddess Lakshmi, crossed the boundary into not only cultural misappropriation but also sacrilege. As these prints, symbols and patterns appear nearly universally in fashion, both high fashion and everyday fashion, they effectively become normalized and it becomes increasingly difficult to recognize and label as cultural and religious misappropriation. Because this misappropriation is so widespread, it disappears from our conscious thought and critique.

This conundrum of widespread cultural symbols—particularly those of Native Americans—going unnoticed, and, thus, subsequently shamelessly worn and commodified, conflicts starkly with the lack of presence of a visible Native American population in our lives. This invisibility of Native Americans in many parts of the country, including in Durham, has contributed to an ignorant grouping of all Native American tribes into one large mass, under the umbrella of a set of stereotypic symbols and characteristics. The feather headdress, in particular has become the overarching depiction of all things Native American. Furthermore, its use as an empty fashion element, with disregard to its cultural significance, has caused its widespread commodification: from the Cleveland Indians mascot to the cover photo of Pharrell Williams on Elle, it is everywhere.

Banding together, rather than being banded together. A simple Google Images search of Native Americans shows how we, as non-Natives, define Native Americans and what is considered Native American. The problem of stereotyping is of course only propagated through fashion, which brings to the fore little more than those images which we already associate with being “Native American.” As presented by the panelists, there needs to be greater unification among Native American fashion designers as well as greater collaboration between these designers and today’s fashion conglomerates. Visibility is key: The need to create more visibility for the incredible diversity of tribes that exist in the world today, and the need for this visibility to make waves through fashion are important aspects to combating this appropriation born out of ignorance.