Dos Perros

The hole-in-the-wall Mexican taco shop has long held its spot as the dominant point of access for authentic, flavorful Mexican food. Middling restaurants followed suit, but tend to sacrifice the essential basics of Mexican food for inessential tourist kitsch. But the advent of the Mexican fine-dining destination, an idea that initially left me skeptical, accustomed as I was to the slew of nondescript, low-rent, yet delicious establishments I grew up with in Southern California, challenged my culinary comprehension New Durham restaurant Dos Perros fits adequately into this niche. Fortunately, the design concept avoids the trappings of fine dining and embraces simplicity. A clean color palette neither over- nor underwhelms, delightfully avoiding gauche Mexican decor. A concise menu divides the platos principales (entrees) tersely into chicken, meat, seafood and vegetarian options. Several entradas (appetizers) piqued my interest. The tostadas de ceviche were, in fact, quite appetizing, though seafood lovers might find that strong lime accents mask the taste of the fish. Ensalada de sandia y pepinos seemed curious—a watermelon and cucumber salad infused with onion and chile powder. Surprisingly, the salad was more bland and unsavory than it was distinctive. The mole poblano was the highlight of the platos: the mole, a tantalizingly difficult sauce to perfect, blends the right amount of Mexican chocolate and chile to create an unusual, richly flavorful chicken dish. The carne asada legitimizes its premium markup by forgoing the usual crispiness for a more tender, bloodier preparation similar to filet mignon. The garnishing queso fresco helps to sell its authenticity. The meals were accompanied by fried rice, pinto beans and fresh batches of corn tortillas that were replenished often by an acutely attentive waiter. Gourmet as a Mexican restaurant may claim to be, it is no better than its basics, and here, Dos Perros does not disappoint. I found myself as attracted to rice and bean soft tacos as I was to the more complex dishes. The dessert menu doesn’t stray far from the classics. The custard-like vanilla flan and candied orange-topped Mexican chocolate ice cream offered a solid finish to a three-course meal. The owner stopped by in casual clothing to greet patrons, among them, Duke faculty. With this casual cool atmosphere, Dos Perros just makes sense in downtown Durham, continuing the new streak of quality urban dining executed with effortless style.