Revolution offers something new

When it comes to Durham dining, it's difficult to complain much about the status quo. That said, the arrival of Revolution could shake up an already nationally recognized establishment.

The latest major addition to the Bull City's dining offerings combines sleek decor with relaxed atmosphere and excellent (if not quite student-priced) food. Located on the slowly but steadily reviving downtown Main Street, Revolution's soft white lighting and sophisticated decor make it both trendy and inviting.

Unable to get a table for two on a Friday night without reservations, we sat at the enormous triangular bar at the center of one of the restaurant's two rooms. Bar dining can be disappointing, but we didn't feel second-class here: the servers were fabulously attentive and the seating spacious. Rather than facing a wall of liquor bottles, we had a panoramic view of the restaurant and the diners and could see dishes being prepared on flat-screen kitchen TVs (turns out the Revolution will be televised).

The prices vary widely on Revolution's menu; its high-end entrees are set off in the "Second Mortgage" section. The restaurant also offers three "tasting" menus, from the $35 three-course selection to the seven-course feast with wines, for $95. The sumptuous three-course menu provided more than enough variety.

A round of tender, lightly spiced beef satays-the best of three courses-kicked off the menu. The main course, a blue crab lasagnette, was less dense than most lasagnas, with ricotta cheese and blue crab offsetting the thin, handmade pasta, topped with a truffle sauce. Although I'm not a truffle enthusiast, the dish was well-made and the subtle, understated pairing of flavors was excellent.

An octopus salad ($8) from the raw and chilled menu was just as impressive. Small slices of octopus-a texture that's exquisite but not for everyone-mixed superbly with tangy olives and peppers to form a dish that will delight octopus fans and win over a few converts. Next came the impeccable buffalo short ribs ($18) with goat cheese grits and creamed corn and vegetables. The meat melted off the bone, and the goat cheese grits were delightfully rich. The vegetables were good, but could have been more substantial-they ended up being more of a garnish than a side.

Desserts did not disappoint. The tasting menu brought a marvelous and rich chocolate cake with a nutty mousse on top; it was intense but not overwhelming. The green tea pots de creme ($8) paired a smooth, if strangely flavored, cream with dark chocolate. Eaters of the world delight--the revolution is here.