Where to cash in on your parents' dollar, love

By some accounts, the Magnolia Grill is best restaurant in North Carolina. A perennial top-finisher on Gourmet's list of the nation's 50 best restaurants, the Magnolia Grill has unequivocally reigned supreme over Durham's dining scene for the past 20 years.

Originally conceived as a casual restaurant serving updated renditions of classic regional dishes, chef-owners Ben and Karen Barker played a fundamental role in the birth of New Southern cuisine. With their dual emphasis on supporting North Carolinian culinary traditions while also expanding the area's culinary horizons, the Barkers garnered a slew of media praise. People from all over the country began flocking to the restaurant, further solidifying its role as one of the South's definitive eateries.

A 20-year life span for any restaurant is an admirable accomplishment, and the Magnolia Grill does not appear to be slowing down in the slightest. In recent years, the Barkers have released two cookbooks, and travel guides still laud the restaurant with accolades. Yet with such a successful run, no doubt assisted by the warm glow of the media spotlight, new diners to the Magnolia Grill are often subject to inflated expectations. A series of visits reveals that this restaurant can be very good, but sometimes loses its way.

As culinary fashions wax and wane, so do the global influences on the Magnolia Grill's diverse menu. This is not a trendy restaurant in the flash-in-the-pan sense, but one that readily adopts fashionable ingredients in an attempt to differentiate itself from its competitors. When this culinary globe-trotting is done subtly-a "carbonara" slaw that adds extra creaminess to the iconic cabbage salad-the result is creative and tasty. When done overtly, however, diners are left with dishes that seem discordant and out-of-place. An otherwise tasty appetizer of grilled octopus with romesco sauce, saffron, roasted red pepper and smoked almonds would have been better suited to a Spanish restaurant than one that emphasizes its Southern roots.

Rather than focus on simplicity, the Magnolia Grill seems to favor excess in the number of ingredients that go into its dishes. Sometimes this penchant leads to plates that seem muddled. This is even apparent on the menu itself, a single page crammed so full of condensed text that it's downright intimidating. Diners are better suited by sticking with simpler dishes that highlight the kitchen's strengths: grilled meats, pork and dishes with a regional bent. The Magnolia Grill was among the first in the New Southern genre and is perhaps the best enjoyed by building meals that primarily fall within this updated theme.

The restaurant's supporting players, however, consistently serve to increase its appeal. Servers are friendly and well-versed in the menu. The wine list is manageable in size, yet diverse and fairly priced. Even a specialty cocktail, the Brick Wall, with bourbon and spiced cider syrup was a surprise hit. And though Karen Barker's desserts nearly universally skew toward the rich, they are a marked improvement over much of what is available in the area.

Is the Magnolia Grill the best restaurant in the region, the state or the Triangle? Perhaps not. But any diner invested in the area's food culture ought to visit to see what the buzz is about.

Other Choice Chewing Grounds:

Though it may be argued that Nana's was born from the Barkers' trail-blazing work at the Magnolia Grill, Chef Scott Howell has created a successful restaurant with its own culinary philosophy. Nana's cuisine subtly combines French, Italian and Southern influences in an elegant package.

Bonne Soiree

431 W. Franklin St.

Chapel Hill, NC

919-928-8388

This relative newcomer serves classic French cuisine in an intimate setting. Remember to make reservations, however, because the dining room seats only 35 diners. In an area where traditional takes on Europe's grand cuisines are woefully underrepresented, Bonne Soiree is refreshing in its honest, retro appeal.

Watts Grocery

1116 Broad St.

Durham, NC

919-416-5040

Amy Tornquist's first restaurant venture since leaving the Nasher Museum Café earlier this year, Watts Grocery is quickly becoming a local favorite. An ideal spot for dinner or brunch with family or friends, this restaurant serves refined takes on Carolinian cuisine. Walk-in customers are seated in the bar section of the restaurant, though reservations are recommended.