Rue Cler

Rue Cler marks the beginning of what recess hopes will become a lasting trend of quality food and appeal to a range of diners among new restaurants in Durham.

Previously, market-driven cuisine was the arena of the area's pricier eateries. Even the bistro Vin Rouge prices itself out of the average student's budget. Rue Cler, however, presents well crafted, seasonal meals for the hungry masses exhausted by the bevy of largely disappointing and soulless eateries in the Triangle.

During recent visits, an assortment of professors, students, local residents and area chefs mingled at the restaurant's small bar and waiting area. And for those not supping at the bar itself, wait for a table they did. Although the restaurant is still working out the finer points of its seating policy-they will not take reservations, but do have an unofficial call ahead policy-disorganization slightly tarnishes the Rue Cler experience on busy nights.

After calling ahead for a table of seven, the restaurant was able to seat my party without much of a wait, an admirable feat for such a small dining room. A week later, despite booking a table for four, we were made to wait nearly an hour. The inconsistency is excusable, as the restaurant does not technically have a reservations system, but far from convenient.

Some of this disorganization seeps into the waitstaff too. Though the servers are among the friendliest and hardest-working in the area, a severe case of understaffing keeps them from seeing to the finer points of service that make for a memorable dining experience. New silverware was repeatedly forgotten to the point of annoyance, breadbaskets were misplaced and water glasses went unfilled for too long. Sometimes the best intentions cannot make up for a lack of manpower.

Despite the restaurant's quirks, Rue Cler's modern yet classic cuisine is what will keep diners returning. A three-course prix fixe dinner for $25 includes three savory courses such as pumpkin soup, wild mushroom gnocchi and pan-seared skate wing. Between visits the menu appeared to be in flux, with some dishes repeating and others making fresh appearances.

The wild mushroom gnocchi was paired with bitter Swiss chard and will hopefully stay around for the rest of the winter. A first-course of foie gras was served as a small portion, but the traditionally luxurious ingredient on a menu with such an accessible price point was a plus. Other bistro classics (like a hefty portion of calves' liver) are welcome additions, if not for the uninitiated.

Besides the prix fixe menu-the choice the majority of diners select-there are reliable and tasty standbys like coq au vin, a red wine chicken stew, and steak frites. The entirely French wine list is unique, but offers few choices by the glass. Unfortunately, desserts suffer from an excess of whipped cream throughout-the crepe du jour seemed more cream than crepe.

Durham, N.C.

919-682-8844