Info: Serena Restaurant and Bar
5311 South Miami Blvd. #A
Durham, N.C.
919-941-6380
Serena is a puzzling restaurant. While it is to be commended for featuring an appealing take on Spanish-American cuisine, the restaurant exhibits too many quirks to be a serious dining destination.
Serena's strange hours suggest the restaurant is in something of an identity crisis. It's closed on Saturday and Sunday, taking a weekend siesta when it might otherwise become known as a culinary hot spot for its unique, though limited, offerings. On the other hand, Serena's odd location-a strip mall skirting Research Triangle Park-makes it an unlikely candidate for nighttime foot traffic.
On a recent Friday night, the restaurant was eerily empty, the wait staff obviously shocked at the arrival of my party. But perhaps they had proper cause for concern, as the kitchen staff lagged in getting much of the food out to the table. It should also be noted that, of the limited offerings, two of seven appetizers were unavailable and only four non-sandwich entrees were on the menu. When we were finally served, one of my party was left without the burger he ordered. As our waiter noted, apparently the kitchen has a hard time counting orders.
The food itself, however, is Serena's saving grace. If one wants American cuisine filtered through the Spanish lens, this is the only place to go in Durham.
While the blueberry dressing on a salad of mixed greens and goat cheese was cloying, the quince, an apple-like fruit, preserves were a welcome addition. The signature Serena burger was made memorable with the addition of piquillo peppers, Fontina cheese, and roasted garlic.
The highlight, however, was a vegetarian dish of stuffed piquillo peppers. Goat cheese made another appearance in the filling, but this time was set against sweet peppers and a sherry vinegar syrup.
Serena warrants at least one visit and is likely to elicit love-it or hate-it responses. Some diners might be able to look past the restaurant's shortcomings and embrace its satisfying offerings. Others will be legitimately disappointed.
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