Wimpy's Grill
Hillsborough Rd. & Hicks St.
Food to Go
W. Markham Ave. & Broad St.
When assessing a roadside eatery, informed eaters often subscribe to the pickup truck-to-minivan ratio. During prime dining hours anything less than three-to-one screams tourist trap rather than local luncheonette.
On a recent visit to Wimpy's Grill, there were no fewer than five pickup trucks--and only one minivan--in the breakfast-and-burger joint's small parking lot--a good sign to be sure.
Food to Go, located just steps outside East Campus' walls, revealed a less favorable ratio, but the dilapidated shack exudes so much local flair that it merited a meal nonetheless. Given their unique character, neither of these establishments will ever be confused with McDonald's or Burger King.
In the interest of fairness, I sampled what may be considered the backbone of this type of eatery--a burger, fries and a homemade dessert--and compared the two meals accordingly.
The specialty burgers at Wimpy's and Food to Go, respectively known as the Works and the TaTa, eschew trendy toppings and generally stick to the basics.
The Works at Wimpy's is a hefty burger piled high with traditional toppings, chili and coleslaw--the latter two additions a classically North Carolinian touch.
The TaTa, employing a thinner and drier patty, is a messier affair with cheese and lots of ketchup and mayonnaise. Unfortunately, neither burger had the satisfying char and beefiness that separates a good burger from a truly great one.
The supporting players, fries and dessert, were of uneven quality. Hand-cut fries at Wimpy's were well-seasoned and full of potato flavor but tragically limp. Food to Go provided sufficiently crisp fries that were bland, despite a heavy coating of salt and pepper.
A peach cobbler at Wimpy's exhibited an unpleasant sweetness, and a banana pudding at Food to Go appeared unappetizingly grayish-yellow and gummy. I could easily have easily skipped these last items.
Although both restaurants have the potential to be popular with students thanks to their low prices, simple foodstuffs and convenient locations, their limited hours prevent them from becoming Duke staples.
Nevertheless, they offer an authentic dining experience not matched anywhere on campus or at common student-dining spots. They may not be worth seeking out for the food alone, but both make fine destinations for those looking for a meal that is distinctively Durham.
Prices:
Works Burger: $3.18
TaTa Burger: $2.69
Pick:
Wimpy's for the Works Burger.
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