Every so often a new restaurant will single-handedly raise the bar for all other competitors in the area. Bin Fifty-Four, a new Chapel Hill steakhouse, is that restaurant.
The "steakhouse" label is a bit of a misnomer, however, as Bin is much more than a temple of delectably grilled meats. Executive Chef Dale Ray has worked with many of America's culinary legends, including Michel Richard of Citronelle, Jean-Lous Palladin of Jean-Louis at the Watergate Hotel, and Patrick O'Connell of the Inn at Little Washington. Ray, a Durham native who began his cooking career at Café Parizade, uses his experience in top kitchens to put a distinctively refined touch on Bin's cuisine. Even the unique glass and silverware evoke some of the urbane sophistication of dining in New York or Chicago that is all but absent in the Triangle.
Bin exudes a welcoming but sleek vibe from the moment you walk in the door. Tall leather booths with dark wood tables dominate the perimeter, while majestically set linen-topped tables fill the rest of the space. An attractive bar and lounge is partially separated from the main dining room. Private dining for large parties is available in both the "board room" and the wine cellar.
Bin offers more than just a sexy space, however.
"We try to manipulate food to enhance it but not to change it," said Ray during a recent visit. "We're clean, simple, and we focus on the best quality."
Bin's food illustrates this philosophy beautifully. From the in-house baked rolls and butter seasoned with sea salt to the grains and produce sourced from small, artisanal producers, Bin demonstrates how carefully selected ingredients can make simple food exceptional.
A seared foie gras dish was served with fig butter and crispy polenta from Anson Mills, one of the nation's premier artisinal grain distributors. The hedgehog mushrooms that accompanied an appetizer of caramelized scallops came from the same farm that supplies Thomas Keller's The French Laundry and Per Se, arguably the best two restaurants in North America.
And, of course, there's the steak. Bin offers approximately 10 different types and cuts of grilled meats, ranging from a USDA Prime bone-in ribeye to a 32-ounce T-bone for two to a venison chop with juniper berries. The bone-in ribeye is an impressive piece of meat and could also easily feed two. Grilling over hardwood gave the steak a notably smoky char and juicy interior. Bin also features a variety of fish, including salmon, black grouper and local big eye tuna. The big eye tuna was grilled with a crust of Szechuan peppercorns that gave a spicy new life to the large, meaty cut of fish.
Even vegetarians can enjoy a satisfying meal at Bin. The sides of pureed sweet potatoes, mushroom ragout, jalapeno cheddar polenta and farro risotto could easily stand on their own. The farro risotto is an especially interesting preparation that involves slowly cooking the farro, an ancient variety of wheat from Italy, in ladlefuls of broth and wine. The resulting dish was satisfying, althought the texture took some getting used to.
After such an onslaught of notable food, it would be easy to forget dessert, but missing these delicacies would be a shame. The blood orange soufflé cake is likely a Triangle first, and the molten chocolate cake with orange sauce and buttermilk ice cream simultaneously evokes childhood memories of both creamsicles and those retro chocolate oranges.
Although Bin may not be the most affordable restaurant in the Triangle, especially for college students, it is worth a special trip. By ordering intelligently-read: heavy on the sides-Bin is no more expensive than dinner and a movie at Southpoint. Now that the bar has been raised, you owe it to yourself to see what the hype is all about.
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