O, beware, my lord, of jealousy! / It is the green-ey'd monster which doth mock / The meat it feeds on.
It's no coincidence that Durham restaurateur George Bakatsias has named his new venture "Verde." Even Shakespeare's Iago was aware of the obvious correlation between envy and the color green. And the ironic truth is that there's much to be envious of at this new Erwin Square eatery.
Opened less than two weeks ago, Verde marks a departure from the typical Bakatsias restaurants of the area. His other establishments--including Parizade's, George's Garage, Vin Rouge and Spice Street--offer mid to high-end fare at prices upwards of $20 an entree. The story is something altogether different at Verde: contemporary, European comfort food priced between $6 and $11.
Those who recall the space in Erwin Square formerly occupied by Madhatter's Bake Shop will be staggered by the extent of its makeover. Employing the same local designer who worked on Spice Street, Bakatsias has renovated the space, turning it from a bland, sartorial bakery into a festive, electric-green cafe. Hues of green dominate the room--from the bright lime walls and chartreuse bar chairs to the burnished jade bar and accent pieces--coming together like a sleek, modern-day Emerald City.
And if you are able to detect something fresh in the green ambiance, something renewing--a sense of nature perhaps--then you'll be on to Bakatsias' own master plan. He aims to import the pervasive sense of freshness and simplicity of the color into the menu itself. It offers an array of "light fare"--like bruschetta and a vegetable and cheese souffle--"cold plates," imported cheeses, salads, sandwiches and "simple fare"--including frittatas, pasta and chicken, pork and steak entrees. Three specials are offered daily, including one fish special.
Make no mistake about it, the menu is unpretentious. Sandwiches do not come with sides; the entree selection is limited; and you'll find comfort food favorites like baked eggs, a turkey sandwich and tomato soup. Even the various imported cheeses each come with only one type of bread (which tastes curiously like that at George's Garage). But at a restaurant like Verde, simplicity is the rule.
During my first visit to the restaurant, we sampled a wide range of items off the menu. My personal recommendations include the portobello mushroom sandwich (one of many appealing vegetarian options), the grilled Ashley Farm chicken with fresh sage and poached potatoes (which turned out to be purple) and the marinated skirt steak (even if our server was unable to identify the marinade) accompanied by an "ensalada verde."
Mushrooms, chicken, inferior cuts of beef--none of it is exactly gourmet, but it's all quite respectable for what it is. Not nearly as respectable was the questionable shrimp "bisque," but we made up for it with a bottle of wine (there exists an excellent selection by the bottle or glass, given the price points) and a few slices of Saint Andre. For dessert the outcome was predictable: Keep it simple with chocolate mousse, veer away from the morbidly bitter Greek yoghurt.
On my subsequent lunch I went with the general manager's recommendation and opted for a pancetta, romaine lettuce, tomato and lemon aioli sandwich. The bread was tough, but the glorified BLT still fit well with what I already knew about Verde--simple and solid.
Only time will tell if Verde makes it big or fades into the limelight. For now, give it a try--at the very least it will cost you less than a pound of flesh.
Verde is open for lunch and dinner seven days a week and until 3 a.m. Friday and Saturday.
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