Walk through Brightleaf Square and you know it's somewhere around here but you can't quite - ah - far left corner. Theo's Kellari. Smiles at the front and a "May I take your coat?" Smiles at your table and lots of "What else can I get you?" Lovely wood paneling that's charming, not quaint, and fantastic lighting. Date lighting.
You dip a chunk of warm bread in a divine incarnation of olive oil and scan the menu: every Greek dish you've ever heard of and plenty you haven't. All prepared "from scratch" in the open kitchen across from your table. Appetizers, your waiter explains, big enough to be a meal in themselves, so "why don't you split one?" You go with the Mezedes, please, and soon find yourself eyeing a sampler platter of tzatziki - stuffed grape leaves, hummus, calamari and other exotic looking delicacies. You're already getting full when your main course arrives, but you make room for a superb lemon risotto with fresh vegetables and watch as your date devours the rack of lamb, which your waiter assures you, will "slide right off the bone," and it actually does. You want to say, "This place is impressive," but your mouth is full. Now, quite starry eyed, you press on to dessert: kataifi, a honey and nut confection that reminds you of baklava, but may be even better.
Stumble out of your booth, get your coat and try to remember the pronunciations for everything that you ate, because you know you'll be coming back, and you hope it will be soon.
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