My Big Fat Greek Meal

In a pathetic attempt to apply what I've learned in my entrepreneurship class about "niche markets," I reasoned that the name Papa's Grill was a poor choice for a restaurant because it didn't strike you as anything special. My friend and I cracked lame jokes about having Mama's Kitchen, Granny's Diner and Lil' Sis' Confectionary. My skepticism and so-called "business sense" flew out the window as I pushed through the glass doors and experienced the true magic of "Papa-style" Mediterranean food.

Papa's Grill's originality lies in its ability to combine the best of two worlds: Greek cuisine and sophisticated fine dining. It's no surprise that its owners, the Papanikas family, also master the mystic blend of spices to create the "Greek touch" in their food.

For an appetizer, the Pikilia--a delightful platter of six different types of dips artistically arranged like a multi-colored flower--is something you do not want to miss. The meltzanosalata, an eggplant spread, which might have been undermined by its grayish tones, instead brings out the natural sweetness and supple texture of the vegetable. The htipiti, a feta cheese spread usually prepared with hot roasted peppers, is given an herbal twist when parsley is substituted. The htipiti's lime color and zesty fragrance bring balance and complexity to the other dips that are mainly sweet or savory. The plate of warm pita wedges would have been better if parmesan cheese were not sprinkled on top--the pungent aroma shielded the natural flavors of the various dips.

For my entree I had Moussaka, a Greek version of shepherd's pie, which is a hearty treat on a chilly winter day. Moist shredded lamb is delicately layered among creamy potatoes, fall squash and a rich cheese sauce. At times, the cheese sauce overpowered the nutty taste of the lamb, which could have been played up. The heat was just right, intense without scorching your tongue. This meaty dish can be rather filling and is not for the faint-hearted.

As we waited for the bill, I mused on the huge mural with a typical Mediterranean landscape: white-washed domed houses, blue skies and a calm ocean. For a moment, I was swept into another world, and it struck me that the name of a restaurant didn't really matter. What's in a name after all?